Gelatos, Cannolis and Cassatas, oh mio!

The final leg run of my trip is in Palermo, Sicily. As usual, I took a bus than a train just for the fact that transportation is more accessible in and around Sicily via bus or car. Trains, of course are preferable in peoples' minds due to less hassle with luggage and people but in some cases the travel time is doubled if you're commuting to small towns or cities leading to transfer to other train stations with short layovers. Before getting to Palermo, taking the bus from Taormina to Catania was a tricky part since I had thoughts visiting there, though my plans changed.

And for an unexpected turn, there were two terminals in Catania and the main question was which one had the bus terminal that will transport to other towns and cities than just regional. As we arrived in Catania, the first terminal seemed almost the correct one to get off at but the bus driver didn't actually stop in the terminal parking lot but just at a bus stop across the street. So I hesitated and remained ready when the next terminal would show up which was at the train station. At the train station, I was looking for any buses that indicated non-regional but kept finding all of them that goes around the city.

So I went to the train station thinking maybe its better to take a train but realized the next one leaving for Palermo 5 hours later from the time I stepped into the terminal. So I made the decision to walk to the original first bus station that we passed on the way but I accidentally found the correct major bus depot for non-regional transportation that was next to one of the bus stops I got off at. If I didn't find the correct ticket booth quickly and bought my ticket, I wouldn't have made my original schedule bus time to leave for Palermo and would of waited for almost 2 hours for the next departure time. My first impression of Palermo when I arrived at the main terminal was that I felt like I was in Oakland the rough part off of International street but realized it reflected more of the essence of San Francisco.

There was many people from different ethnic backgrounds that are populated all over the city from Turkish to Africans to Tunisians to Chinese to Pakistanis, Greeks and many other nationalities. Palermo had the same issue with garbage everywhere but not as bad as Naples, its more of a unique city in my opinion. So much influence of religion, food, culture from the many ethnic backgrounds to create a palette of personality for the region.

Walking around solo in the city in specific areas of old town neighborhoods might not be the smartest thing to do especially at night since it resembles rough parts of Oakland, New York or San Francisco to name a few. But don't get me wrong, Palermo has alot to offer when exploring the city it just depends what your interest is and if you are with a group. During my stay here, I visited a nearby town called Monreale that is west of Palermo on a hilltop mountain that has a huge cathedral and is their main attraction for tourists to observe a great view of the seashore neighboring towns sitting next to Palermo.

The Teatro Massimo was something to really step into in person, this theater has definitely that opera house appearance inside which is definitely expensive to watch a ballet or musical performance. Back in the 90s, Francis Ford Coppola showcased his Godfather III film at the theater. And one of my favorite places I visited was the Catacombe dei Cappucini, an underground storage for many deceased mummified Palermitans from over the years. Definitely not for everyone, but an interesting look on how these individuals' bodies are preserved over time which alot of them were significant figures in Palermo history. Staying in Palermo by far was the most food I ate on my whole trip including sweets since I was staying with my aunt and friends, she didn't allow me to go hungry, so I appreciate the hospitality and love. Though spending my vacation in Italy and Sicily was just a wonderful trip, celebrating my birthday in Palermo with my aunt and friends was something I will really cherish in my heart forever.

                         

                                                                                                               Catacombe dei Capuccini

A view of thoughts and dreams

As you already know, I'm more comfortable taking buses than trains reasoning being that I want to observe the scenery of the many towns and cities I pass by to get an idea of how life truly is in the country side. My next destination is Taormina in Sicily which is located on a hill top off the eastern side coast. My bus ride from Leece would be taking 9+ hours and the schedule for my original departure was not on time as I arrived there early. Even an elderly woman approached me and spoken to me in Italian about when is the bus arriving and obviously I couldn't communicate with her well but the bus finally arrived and we were off to the region of Sicily. Our bus made a detour along the coast of Golfo De Taranto which is on the west coastline that is adjacent to the Mediterranean sea as we arrived at the port of Reggio di Calabria.

From here we had to take the ferry across the sea to Messina which is the northeastern province of Sicily and that took about 30-40 min ride but with very rough waters and wind. Everyone on board was allowed to leave their vehicles and walk around the ferry to take a view of Sicily or just stretch out. But as I recalled before we reached the port of Messina, I walked back to my bus and noticed couple of people didn't returned to their seats which got me thinking what would happen when we dock at the port? Would the driver take a head count or just leave as we approach the dock?

The vehicles drove off the ferry onto the street as the doors opened up leading to the port of Messina. From there, I felt bad for few of the people that didn't get back to the bus but should of known that the bus was going to leave when the ferry reaches the port to dock. So we made a quick stop to the Messina bus and train terminal for dropoffs and head onto to straight to Catania. But I needed to stop off at Giardini Naxos which is 10 min away from Taormina and make a bus transfer.

Reaching to the hill top of the mountain of Taormina was a familiar road in San Francisco which of course is Lombard street. The street was so narrow, the bus had to make very decisive when to turn due to oncoming vehicles. But as I arrived at the bus terminal of Taormina, I quickly noticed the environment and vibe around me, this place was more of a resort that you could go to during the summer time. Walking around town just like being in Palo Alto or Stanford shopping center, many high end boutique shops for tourists to spend outrageous prices for clothes, accessories and dinner. Traveling on the funivia was fun at the bottom of where Mazzaro beach was located to the top of Taormina, its basically a those sky cable cars that travels from station to another. Isola Bella is a small island you can walk across from the beach of Mazzaro, and it was just a wonderful site to see.

But getting to the bottom was nothing but a challenge especially for me taking a risk And the view from the top of Taormina to observe the scenery of the the neighboring towns was outstanding but also a great look at Mt. Etna that is one of Europe's most active volcanoes. And of course I can't forget the Teatro Greco, one of Sicily's famous theaters for entertainment. I could imagine witnessing a live music performance there as a spectator would be something to cherish once in a lifetime experience. It was the perfect time to see this amazing architecture since the high season of tourists flocking in to Sicily hasn't quite hit yet.

Good ol southern hospitality

Leaving for Leece was an quite interesting travel that is located in the southeast region of Puglia which is considered the heel portion of the country as Matera appears in the central part of Italy. First of all, trains usually don't function on Sundays so everything is limited including buses. Even though I had to take one, there was no other option or pay ridiculous price for a hired driver to my destination. So I took the bus to Bari which is at a seaport city that is useful as a transfer stop to either going north or south.

Funny thing that happened was, I was supposed to buy a bus ticket at these newspaper-like stands called 'Tabacchi' initially after the first town we stopped at after leaving Matera due to the bus and train terminal being closed at Matera and the driver doesn't sell bus tickets, so I didn't. I was under the impression that I could pay for the ticket at the Bari train and bus terminal since few others followed my decision but that oddly turned out different.

When we arrived at the Bari station, I was trying to explain to the driver in english that I didn't buy a ticket earlier in the trip and asking him where to buy it around the terminal, but of course he's not going to fully understand my english so I just got off he bus and headed to the station with confusion and a free ride to my next departure. I would not advise anyone to do same thing but it might work from a small town than a city and most likely on a Sunday, I just got lucky with a free pass. The buses at the terminal didn't seem right so I took the train which was easier and faster to get to Leece.

This city has baroque style buildings and judging from people's reactions of what they say about Florence in the past, you can make an arguement about Leece being the same but located in the south with less tourists. Some time after arriving in Leece station, I headed towards old town since it was in walking distance for me even I didn't know where I was going, I was still try to look for my hotel. While I stopped by few places to take photos of the outside architecture, I was approached by few Americans one from San Francisco, the other two probably Los Angeles area, one worked for NBC and the other worked on the Jay Leno show as one those guys that do funny skits. I don't recall the gentleman's character or name from the show but from the looks of the postcard he gave me, had to be from the 90s since it looked old but one image of him appearing as the Quaker oats oatmeal cannister guy seemed familiar.

Even though this city is small, I felt the presence of people enjoying being around in old town at the main piazza. Interesting enough how I was getting looks of being the one and only person wearing shorts in the evening while it was cold even though I knew I shouldn't have worn them let alone going into a church with them, which leads me into the dress attire code for Italy. In the south, they're more conservative even if its a scorching hot climate at that specific time, people still dress up or at least wear full pants and the ladies don't wear outfits that will reveal their shoulders and thaw including going into churches. I guess its the culture of showing respect for you and others. The teatro greco theater was a great view even though it was under renovation, it might not Gladiator style from Rome's coliseum but its definitely a place to see in person that you can visual what type of entertainment would the audience be instore for.

They have flea market type of streets that sells all kinds of goods which will peak your interests if you can bargain with them in speaking little to no italian. The one thing I noticed in the cities and towns I visited in the south, the people tend to be more friendly and warmth than their counter parts in the north, based on people I met from what they say but of course not everyone will fit in that sterotype which is an interesting observation. Time to head towards the land of the Mafia. Chao.

As far my eyes could see

Leaving Naples was really something, in some sense I was overwhelmed with so much stuff going on from traffic, culture, people, etc.. You know flying into another country by yourself for the first time and thinking that you're fully prepared for everything that comes at you, that's not easy to deal with at first but you adapt to some degree. Definitely, I felt like I was in elementary for the first day of school and not knowing anyone, can create anxiety. I did meet alot of people and became friends with but I was ready to move on to my next adventure. You know when you hear or see pictures about a specific place that is very unique that makes you really wonder about it at first, till you experience the surroundings in person.

That is what 'Sassi' Matera is all about, welcome to the world of homes and buildings made out of stones straight from the ground that sits on a hill top. This is such a magical environment, you almost have an at ease and awe feeling while you navigate yourself in this giant maze of intrigue. Getting here is not really easy unless you have a car, its in a remote area south east of Naples in the region called Basilicata and taking the train will take twice as long due to transfers from stations. I took a direct route bus to the modern city of Matera for which I ended walking to the Sassi cause mainly I had a camping style backpack and a camera bag, plus I wanted to save money from spending on public transportation and its good excercise.

I did get lost trying to find my hotel since it was on the other side of the Sassi, but eventually I found it after walking around in the dark for maybe an hour and half. Though I was relishing in the room I was staying at, I could of saved money and stayed in a hotel in the modern part of the city but the whole experience was to sleep and breathe in this cave like home.

Back in the 60s the Sassi was considered inhabitable and the residents had to move in the modern city since the local government didn't feel it was needed to be restored for many years of deterioration. For 30+ years nothing was done till an author wrote about the place while being exhiled in the deserted town. Then by late 90s the government finally made the decision to restore the 'Sassi' so that people can live there and you might have or have not known that Mel Gibson's 'Passion of Christ' was filmed there.

The view was nothing but spectacular, I even made the trek across this adjacent ravine toward the opposite hill like mountain to capture pictures and film of this unbelievable view of this town. The journey was risky of course, cause I could've slipped and fall down this steep hill on both sides. I actually did slipped on a stone and almost fell into the water with a decent current heading towards my me while carrying two cameras.

The vibe of this place feels so special like I was invited to a big family gathering dinner and you can sense the rich history in the air here. I only stayed there for 2 nights but it felt like I was there much longer, I highly suggest anyone to visit this place, this was definitely one of my highlights of my trip by far.

                                                                                  
                                                                                        Walking around the steps of the Sassi di Matera

A way to a man's heart is through his stomach

It's been couple of days since I landed in Naples and didn't get to blog about my experiences so I gonna just recap of what went on and now here is my first official entry during my trip. I arrived in Naples on tuesday around noon without my luggage and basically wearing what I showed up at the SFO on Monday morning except for a light jacket and spare shirt. Speaking to the lost in found at the airport about my backpack luggage not being transported was not that encouraging since their demeanor seemed nonchalant. It happens all the time which I found out from the hostel I'm staying at but I just tried to focus on enjoying the beginning of my trip and did alot of exploring churches to piazzas to monuments.

But I highly advise anyone who travels to Italy to bring extra pieces of clothing in their carry-on bag just case if your luggage doesn't arrive with you at your destination so you wouldn't have to buy wearing essentials that could be expensive and inconvience. Garbage is a problem everywhere and there is no secret about but all cities are like that it just depends how much.

But aside from that, Naples is a hot spot for fashion in guys and gals you won't see anyone in shorts including girls and women. That's the culture of appearing respectable but having their own style just don't get me started for young guys wearing pants and sweats that are skinny with the Gumby haircut (80s cartoon). I had my Naples pizza from a place called Di Matteos, it was simple but good for a small pan all tomato sauce based pizza with a single strip of mozzarella.

You could go for a whole pizza called Magherita which is the same thing but more mozzarella strips. Trains are overwhelming to take in Naples since there are many different types of trains covering regions and doesn't help if you can't read Italian in the ticket machines or not having a europass so I suggest buses for alternative thaw cheaper if you are not in a huge hurry.

Oh yeah, you need to wear good walking shoes since the roads and sidewalks are not flat, though its fun to explore in these alleyways you'll find interesting shops, food places and attractions. Off to Matera. A più tardi!